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YouTube Companion Video: https://youtu.be/Q4TuTQV1lew
It is said that the 2nd Earl Spencer had his tail-coat adapted after its tails were burned by coals from a fire. From that day forward the popularity of the Spencer influenced fashion for ladies and gentlemen, adults and children, on both sides of the Atlantic.
My Regency wardrobe has one staple white embroidered linen gown with a crossover bodice. Gradually I've added a chemisette, accessories, a pink embroidered linen Spencer, the Hamilton Spencer, and a red silk with gold piping overdress.
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I made a Gathered Day Hat and Petal Reticule with the same red and gold silk fabrics.
To further extend the use of the white linen gown, I've decided to make another Spencer using the red and gold silk fabrics and a spencer pattern by Laughing Moon Mercantile, #129 Ladies' Wrapping Front Spencer, appropriate for years 1798 to 1809, with 4 collar and 2 back variations.
My design will be a combination of the neckline from View A with gold piping at the edge,
and View C with the longer and pleated back.
Laughing Moon Mercantile patterns are incredible and this one has a full page of historical inspiration. I'm loving the open front design.
Sewing the Spencer
The red silk is cut for the Bodice Front,
and the Long Bodice Back and Long Bodice Side.
Without the standing collar or lapels, these are all the main body pieces required.
The only other pieces I will need are the Upper Sleeve, the Under Sleeve, and the Cuff Facing.
The lining pieces are cut from a red cotton with care being taken as the pattern pieces are not always the same for the exterior and lining.
The sewing is very straightforward and, as always, I find the Laughing Moon pattern details and illustrations very thorough.
Darts are sewn into the bodice fronts and then pressed toward the side seam. There are also directions for a gathered front, if desired.
The bodice sides are sewn to the bodice fronts.
The sides are sewn to the back creating the back pleats.
All seams and the pleats are pressed well.
The shoulder seams are sewn and pressed.
Piping is made with the gold silk and cotton cord and sewn to the front and neck edge of the bodice.
The bodice lining is sewn together.
The bodice and lining are pinned right sides together and sewn leaving the back lower edge open between the side seams.
The seam allowances are trimmed, the bodice turned right side out and pressed.
The pleats in the lining are positioned in the pleats in the silk and tacked to hold everything in place.
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The seam allowances are turned in on the open lower edge for both the lining and exterior fabric and then handstitched to close.
The bodice and lining are basted together at the armholes.
Time for sleeves. Two lines of gathering stitches are sewn in the Upper Sleeve as marked, and one line sewn in the Under Sleeve.
The upper and under sleeves are sewn together at both seams top to bottom.
The sleeves are sewn to the bodice matching all markings and gathered as necessary.
With the gold piping detail already on this Spencer, I decided to make a change. I had cut the cuff facing from the red silk but decided that a pop of gold just inside the sleeve would be a nice touch.
The gold silk Cuff Facings are sewn to the sleeve lining and the linings completed in the same manner as the outer sleeve.
The sleeve lining is sewn to the sleeve at the lower edge right sides together.
The sleeve lining is pulled up into the sleeve, the seam allowance turned in, and the lining sewn to the bodice covering the sleeve stitching and gathering as necessary.
The Gathered Day Hat and the Petal Reticule have touches of red embroidery on gold.
I thought it might be a perfect touch to the Spencer to create embroidered buttons and embroidered a bit of gold fabric...
and used button blanks.
Two buttons are sewn at the top of the back pleats, one at the back of each sleeve, and one to attach to the front if the Spencer is worn closed or it can be pinned inside a sleeve if the Spencer is worn open.
Finished Regency Spencer
With the buttons sewn, the Spencer is finished!
Worn open inspired by the illustrations.
The red and gold petal reticule and Spencer really pop against the white gown.
A Perfect Touch - Empire Shawls
While there are many accessories that I've taught myself to create, there are others that are only obtainable from highly skilled artists and small businesses in our costuming community. One of those accessories and a perfect touch to this Regency ensemble was a shawl from Empire Shawls. Her creations are wonderfully designed, historically accurate in design and size, created in limited numbers, and offered in several options allowing someone as budget-conscious as I am to fit one into their wardrobe. This particular one works with the gown alone and with the several Spencers I have now made.
Hugs,
Jeanette
December: That's a Wrap: Make an accessory or garment that is worn by wrapping it around the body.
What the item is: Spencer
How it fits the Challenge: The Spencer is designed to wrap to close or may be worn open.
Material: Silk and cotton
Pattern: Laughing Moon #129 Ladies' Wrapping Front Spencer
Year: 1798-1809
Notions: Cord for neckline edge, button blanks for embroidered buttons, thread.
How historically accurate is it? The sleeve lining silk and pattern are historically accurate but the red silk for the exterior is a slubbed silk and not accurate.
First worn: February 2024 Jane Austen Festival in Mt. Dora, Florida, USA
Total cost: $32
What the item is: Spencer
How it fits the Challenge: The Spencer is designed to wrap to close or may be worn open.
Material: Silk and cotton
Pattern: Laughing Moon #129 Ladies' Wrapping Front Spencer
Year: 1798-1809
Notions: Cord for neckline edge, button blanks for embroidered buttons, thread.
How historically accurate is it? The sleeve lining silk and pattern are historically accurate but the red silk for the exterior is a slubbed silk and not accurate.
First worn: February 2024 Jane Austen Festival in Mt. Dora, Florida, USA
Total cost: $32
